Hail hydra5/19/2023 Our spacious room has a living area, kitchenette, en-suite, mezzanine bedroom and air conditioning. We stay at charming Phaedra Hotel, a few minutes' walk from the harbour. 'Don't worry, your horses aren't suicidal,' says Harriet reassuringly. And bonus - the captain is the jolliest of coves.Īnother memorable activity is a superb guided horse ride from the town to a hillside monastery with inimitable British-Greek local Harriet Jarman, who walks with our highly composed daughter and her horse at the front while we parents fret at the back, worried – completely unnecessarily – that our nags might fall off the narrow hairpin-y roads we encounter at the start. The best watery experience by far, though, is an all-day cruise (with lunch) around the island ( with stop-offs in magical sea caves, hard-to-reach idyllic coves and a sensational double-sided beach. We also boat it to the excellent Mandraki Beach Resort to the east, the only sandy beach on the island and one with a gently sloping seabed that's perfect for youngsters, deluxe sun loungers, fresh-water showers, an oversized wooden swing and a good restaurant. The absence of mopeds buzzing about like hornets and cars barging their way along pretty lanes generates a remarkably tranquil and carefree vibe There are several beaches further out easily reachable by foot along undulating stone-paved roads that occasionally bisect cliffside al fresco taverna tables (highly recommended Vlychos Beach, for instance), but the best – and most thrilling – mode of transport is a zippy water taxi speedboat from the harbour, one of the free boat shuttles laid on by the resorts or one of the bigger double-decker communal ferry boats. RIGHT: A picture of Bisti Beach that Ted took from the deck of an island-tour boatĪ popular spot for a swim is actually right by the harbour entrance, where concrete platforms have been built into the rock face, with metal steps leading into the water.ĭaredevils delight in throwing themselves off some of the adjacent sweaty-palm-inducing rocky pinnacles. Here there's no natural shade, but there are well-organised sun loungers with umbrellas and a cafe with shaded seating. LEFT: The remote Paralia Agios Nikolaos beach, which lies in a bay on the practically uninhabited south side of the island.
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